Day 30

Off the trail.  I’m in Asheville NC today.  Will be returning home tomorrow.  Felt better but still not 100% .  I decided to spend the last day here exploring the Biltmore Estate and parts of Asheville.  It’s an amazing place. Hard to imagine the wealth of the Vanderbilt family.  The Biltmore bears some resemblance to the castles we saw in France so I suspect the architect drew some influence from them.  They say it is 180,000 square feet.

Gorgeous rooms and great views of the mountains.  It is still owned by the family.

The Newport mansions are perhaps a little more elegant with their marble and intricacies but not by much and I don’t think they are as big or anywhere near as large an estate.  I believe they said the Biltmore Estate covers approximately 8,000 acres.

The grounds are magnificent.  I walked some of the garden areas but there are gobs more to cover including a working farm, winery and more.

You just have to see it for yourself because there is too much for here.

I also drove around Asheville to check it out.  Started with the River Arts District.  It’s an area close to the river which they are reviving with art studios in funky older buildings.  Very interesting.

Then I went to the downtown area.  There are lots of local microbreweries here.  Sampled some but given my health did not have a lot.  Otherwise I found the downtown to be somewhat uninspiring.  It wasn’t the quaint southern town I expected.  Seemed a bit run down in a few sections.

Out by the Biltmore Estate is Biltmore Village.  That area was more upscale.

The Grand Bohemian Hotel is really cool on the inside.  If I get back here I want to have a drink at their bar and dinner at the restaurant.  

So this is the end of this journey at least for now.  So glad I started it.  Wish it went longer.

Back home tomorrow.  Feeling depressed that my journey is ending but I can’t wait to see everyone.

“There is nothing like looking if you want to find something”.

Day 29

I have mixed feelings about getting off the trail but deep down I think it’s the right decision for health reasons.  I’m still not 100% and we face big climbs and warm weather.  I am probably suffering from hydration and nutrition issues but I should get my blood pressure checked as well.  It would not be good if I had problems on the trail since the next town is about a 5 day hike away.  The pace the tramily has set is also on the aggressive side for me.  While they seem to be getting their trail legs I seem to be struggling more.  It might be due to hydration or other health issues which I think I should address before continuing.  It’s been great having the company and learning from experienced hikers like BAMA, ADD and others.  It’s particularly helpful to someone like me who has never backpacked before. They really enhanced the fun of my hike. I wish those fabled trail legs had kicked in a little faster.  But I think caution is important at this point because of how I feel.  

It’s been a very interesting 275 miles of hiking in a gorgeous part of the country.  I’ve met a lot of good people and experienced a different culture down here.  The southern charm is real and welcoming.  The people both here and on the trail have been a great experience for me and opened my eyes wider.  I’m sure glad I did it.  I'm leaning toward heading back home to get my health checked out before deciding on whether to continue on the hike.

So today the tramily met for breakfast at 7am as scheduled.  ADD is a little down and said he is sad that I am leaving.  I feel the same way.  I feel like I am letting the team down but BAMA said don’t be sorry.  Everyone has to do their own hike.  

After breakfast we said our goodbyes and hoped we would meet up again on the trail.  You never know.  Now they are off continuing their adventure.  Safe travels.

I returned to the hostel and caught my shuttle to Asheville with Wild Bill.  He’s another Appalachian Trail gem, about 80 years old filled with stories that kept me entertained during the 50 minute ride to Asheville.  He dropped me at the car rental near the airport.  I’ll be here a day so I am renting a car for transport.  Got the car had some lunch and checked into a real hotel (Hampton Inn & Suites) near the Biltmore Estate.  Shower, Advil and sleep.😊

On Friday I fly home, get checked out and will reassess from there.

Happy trails to all that are continuing on.  You have my deepest respect and best wishes for a safe and adventurous journey.  Maybe we’ll meet again.

Day 28

We zeroed today in Hot Springs, NC.   It’s a small hiker town.  Population of about 500.  It consists of about 3 blocks worth of small stores, a few restaurants, the mineral Springs and parks.  It’s situated at the base of the mountains so it’s a pretty area.  The Laughing Heart Hostel is about two to three blocks from the center.  It’s just a few minutes down a country road.  We walked into town for breakfast at the diner.

Eggs, hash browns, bacon, toast, orange juice, coffee and the like.  Awesome.  Pretty much the same group from the bar came for breakfast.  Portions are generous.  Prices are awesome.  

Much of the areas and towns we have walked through are somewhat impoverished.  Not much in the way of employment down here.  Some agriculture, trout farms, restaurants  and cabins and lodges for vacationing or hunting and fishing.  So life is pretty simple here.  It’s a slower pace as well.  Outdoor life of hiking, camping, hunting and fishing is big.  Guns are a big part of culture.  Saw a store with the slogan “Drugs and Guns”.  You guessed it; a drug store that sells ammo and guns I’m told.

Life style is very laid back.  Think of the Andy Griffith show in terms of the pace of life and colloquialism and you get the idea.  People are very friendly  and folksy.  There is a certain southern charm to the area.

I walked down to see the hot springs they are noted for.  They are on the other side of town (a few blocks) over the railroad tracks just before the river.  They have hot tubs (like people have back home) set up behind partitions which they pipe the mineral water into.  Maybe large enough for 6  to 8 people.  I’m sure soaking in hot mineral water is nice but it just looked ok.  I did not go in.  

Took a stroll to the French Broad River which skirts past the Edge of town. Very pretty here.  Pictures never do it justice.

Still pretty full from breakfast and looking to get some vegetables in our diet we had so we had salads for lunch at the Iron Horse Station.  

I’ve been drinking a lot of water and Gatorade trying to hydrate.  Still not feeling up to speed so I’ve decided to tell ADD and BAMA that I have decided to go into Asheville for a couple of days to sight see and recoup.  I actually had Asheville on my list to see anyways.  I want to see the Vanderbilt’s Biltmore Estate.  I also have the impression it’s a quaint little southern town.  Not sure why I do because I’ve not really done any research on it, just heard good things about it.  I guess we’ll see.  I would probably forego Asheville to stick with the tramily if it weren't for my health but I am concerned with the possibility of passing out and having more serious health issues on the trail and the next trail town is approximately 5 hiking days away.  At the top of my list for hiking the trail was health and safety.  So I’m breaking up the tramily and going into Asheville to get more rest and do some leisurely sight seeing.  Hopefully that will get me back on my feet where I will fill comfortable continuing. 

Had dinner at the diner and beer at Creekside with the other hikers.  Word has spread that I’m breaking off.  Cousin, Wheels, Jimmy Trails and others wished me the best and encouraged me to consider resuming my trip after Asheville.  It was nice to get this encouragement.  I may never see these people again.  Good folk.  They are made of hardy stock.

Most of the hikers here are heading out tomorrow although there is still a steady flow getting into town every day.  The hiker bubble is still passing through although we are on the back end of it.  We plan on having breakfast in the morning so I’ll see some before they go.  Others will leave very early before breakfast to beat the expected heat. 

I packed everything up, made reservations for a shuttle to Asheville (about 35 miles) and a hotel near the Biltmore Estate in Asheville.  My tramily plans to meet for breakfast at 7am.  ADD and BAMA will hike on from there and I will return to hostel to wait for my 9am shuttle.

Now it’s time to sleep.  💤 

Day 27

Dave (ADD) was sick last night.  Heard him puking in the middle of the night for a while.  Everyone is fearful of getting the norovirus but I think he had a little food poisoning.  He was complaining about his stomach a little at the end of the day.  Since he was only throwing up that’s what I think. With Norovirus you go and throw.  Norovirus is very contagious.  

In the morning Sandy headed out and I hung back with ADD to be sure he was ok.  We have about 12.8 miles to do today to get to Hot Springs.  Right off the bat we had a serious climb followed by several smaller climbs.  I prefer to get the climbing done early in the day when my legs are fresher.  More ridge hiking please.  Not too many views today because of foliage but the foliage is beautiful.  Lots of flowers, mountain streams and the like.

Temperatures warmed up into upper 70s.  The humidity is higher as well.  In fact today may be the first day I really noticed the humidity.  One good thing is that the foliage is out even more to protect us from the sun.  ADD seems to be doing ok although his energy level is down a little.  We are enjoying the trail’s lush foliage and fauna, mountain streams and waterfalls.  Periodically we passed or got passed by other hikers.  So many interesting characters on this trail, young and old, both genders, hiking alone or in small groups.  Each seem to have a story to tell.  I’m amazed at the number of people from overseas hiking this trail.  Countries I’ve counted include:  Sweden, Germany, Japan. Australia, New Zealand, England and Israel.  

The last few miles of today’s hike were a descent into Hot Springs.  Descents don’t cause me as much exertion as the climbs but they are tougher on the knees.  We’ve been pushing big miles the last several days, at  least they are for me.  On the way down deer were crossing the trail but ran off down the hill as we approached.  The terrain is steep off the trail but it didn’t seem to hinder them.  

The hostel we stayed at was right on the trail just as we made it to the edge of town.  It’s called the Hostel at Laughing Heart Lodge.  When we arrived we got a cold soda and slumped at a bench.  Then we pulled our pack into our room and prepared to clean up and do laundry.  Good lord we need a shower.

The owners or caretakers were out back by the bench and welcomed us.  Very laid back like most hostels on the trail.  So different from what I am used to.  They are also very friendly.

When I was unpacking and getting ready to clean up I bent down to pick something up and blacked out.  I don't really remember falling only I heard the thud of my body hitting the floor and someone calling out several times if I was alright.  Kind of an out of body experience.  Had to pick myself up off the floor.  So I sat down for a while before I showered and did laundry.  Felt a little better in a few minutes.  I am worried about my exertion, nutrition and hydration and blood pressure levels. 

It was mid afternoon so Sandy and Dave went in to town to look around a little.  I was still woozy so I stayed at the hotel and rested.  I needed to reassess my situation.  

After a few hours I felt better and walked into town (a short walk) for dinner.  I went to the Smoky Mountain Diner.  Boy are things cheap down here.  Got a full dinner with drink for about $12.  Portions are large and food tasted great.  It’s country dining and I'm loving it.  I think the hiker hunger is setting in.

I met No Heart and Nightingale at the diner. We’ve been leapfrogging them for weeks.  I think both of these guys are veterans.  I know No Heart is.  He was special forces I believe and saw some serious action in Afganistan,  Good people to hike with.  They got to town yesterday and took a zero day here today.  They will be heading out tomorrow.  I think we will zero tomorrow before heading out.  So I ate dinner with them and felt a little better.  After dinner we walked down the street a block to Spring Creek Tavern & Inn to meet up with other hikers and have a beer.  It’s a nice place with a creek running along side it.  We sat outside on the porch where we could watch the people fishing and enjoy a beautiful evening.  The place was full of hikers.  The group at the table I sat at included the following starting at 7 o’clock and going clockwise;  Jimmy Trails, Chris (Cousin), Nightingale, No Heart (with head down), someone I didn’t know, Wheels, Sandy (now with trail name BAMA), and ADD.

Those are predominately hikers at the other tables as well.

We had a good time discussing trail stories, catching up on whereabouts of people we’ve met on trail and the like.  There have already been a number who have left the trail.  Others are ahead and some behind depending on their speed and other factors such as zero days taken.  Good to hear about all these.  I nursed a beer and drank water.  I'm feeling better but still woozy at times.

The three of us shared a single room with three beds the first night as three separate private rooms weren’t available until the second night.  We’ll move to those tomorrow.😊

I’m concerned about my blackout.  I was woozy the night before and still a little light headed tonight. Tomorrow is a zero day so I will think about this in the morning and see how it goes.

Time for sleep.  💤