Post Hike 2019

Since I left the trail, I followed ADD and BAMA via ADD's Youtube videos (Hiking with ADD), BAMA's Instagram postings and ADD's In-reach tracking which he shared with me.  ADD and BAMA joined up with Jimmy Trails, Wheels and Chris (Cousin) when they left Hot Springs and became the "freaky five".

I'm very jealous and loved tracking their adventure. 

In hindsight I wished I had taken some time, recovered and gone back and joined them along the way.  A part of me regrets that I didn't do that but I became engrossed in other adventures with Deirdra, grandkids and others which turned out to be very rewarding.  This included hiking out West in Utah and Arizona, biking the C&O Canal for a week, time in the White Mountains with grandkids and a great weekend on Nantucket.  I have no complaints. The vortex is strong.

In late June I was in Washington for a family get together and was able to meet up with some of the freaky five at the Wolfsville Road crossing about 30 miles north of Harpers Ferry.  There is a small parking area about 50 yards off the trail.  They caught me up on some of the hiker news.  Wheels had gone ahead of the group to get to Boiling Springs, PA to see his niece I believe.  Sadly I learned that Chris had gotten to Harpers Ferry but left the trail to return home to Sweden because of a possible case of limes disease.  No Heart had also gotten off the trail due to injury.  Others had fanned out along the trail according to their hiking speed or left it for various reasons.  Felt really bad for Chris as this was the second time he had to leave the trail due to illness or family illness.  Hope everything works out well.

It was good to see them and provide some trail magic.  Food, beer and the like.  Unbeknown to me was that the park ranger residence was down the road from the parking area and having alcoholic beverages at that location was a no-no.  He drove past and stopped but when we explained that I was just doing a little trail magic for some thru hikers and promised to clean everything up he was ok with it.  Thanks Mr. Ranger!

In earlyAugust, Mrs. ADD flew up and joined ADD in Massachusetts.  They came east for a couple of days and stayed with us to see the Boston area.  It was great to have them. 

BAMA and ADD finished their thru hike on September 27.  I think Wheels and Jummy Trails finished on September 24.  Congrats on this amazing accomplishment.

I have been trying to keep in shape for my continuation hike in April, 2020.  Mostly working out in the gym and day hiking on a pretty routine basis.  I did take some time off from the gym over the Christmas Holidays but now back at it.  Winter weather will make hiking more difficult shortly so more time will be confined to the gym.  I am switching out some gear to shed some weight and hopefully get the full pack weight down to 30 pounds or less.  I was at 33-34 pounds when I started last time,  The main items I am changing out are my tent from a Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 to a Zpacks duplex tent and my sleeping bag which was a NEMO to an as yet to be finalized mummy bag.  In all I am saving between three to four pounds.  This exchange is solely to save weight as I loved both the tent and the sleeping bag I started with last time.

Starting to get nervous and excited for the April start even though it is more than 3 months away.  Have the new tent and have set it up.  It seems pretty easy to set up.  Purchased an In-Reach so I have another level of protection and safety and Deirdra will be able to better track my whereabouts.  Still looking at lighter sleeping bag options.  Probably change up a few smaller items but nothing significant.

Day 30

Off the trail.  I’m in Asheville NC today.  Will be returning home tomorrow.  Felt better but still not 100% .  I decided to spend the last day here exploring the Biltmore Estate and parts of Asheville.  It’s an amazing place. Hard to imagine the wealth of the Vanderbilt family.  The Biltmore bears some resemblance to the castles we saw in France so I suspect the architect drew some influence from them.  They say it is 180,000 square feet.

Gorgeous rooms and great views of the mountains.  It is still owned by the family.

The Newport mansions are perhaps a little more elegant with their marble and intricacies but not by much and I don’t think they are as big or anywhere near as large an estate.  I believe they said the Biltmore Estate covers approximately 8,000 acres.

The grounds are magnificent.  I walked some of the garden areas but there are gobs more to cover including a working farm, winery and more.

You just have to see it for yourself because there is too much for here.

I also drove around Asheville to check it out.  Started with the River Arts District.  It’s an area close to the river which they are reviving with art studios in funky older buildings.  Very interesting.

Then I went to the downtown area.  There are lots of local microbreweries here.  Sampled some but given my health did not have a lot.  Otherwise I found the downtown to be somewhat uninspiring.  It wasn’t the quaint southern town I expected.  Seemed a bit run down in a few sections.

Out by the Biltmore Estate is Biltmore Village.  That area was more upscale.

The Grand Bohemian Hotel is really cool on the inside.  If I get back here I want to have a drink at their bar and dinner at the restaurant.  

So this is the end of this journey at least for now.  So glad I started it.  Wish it went longer.

Back home tomorrow.  Feeling depressed that my journey is ending but I can’t wait to see everyone.

“There is nothing like looking if you want to find something”.

Day 29

I have mixed feelings about getting off the trail but deep down I think it’s the right decision for health reasons.  I’m still not 100% and we face big climbs and warm weather.  I am probably suffering from hydration and nutrition issues but I should get my blood pressure checked as well.  It would not be good if I had problems on the trail since the next town is about a 5 day hike away.  The pace the tramily has set is also on the aggressive side for me.  While they seem to be getting their trail legs I seem to be struggling more.  It might be due to hydration or other health issues which I think I should address before continuing.  It’s been great having the company and learning from experienced hikers like BAMA, ADD and others.  It’s particularly helpful to someone like me who has never backpacked before. They really enhanced the fun of my hike. I wish those fabled trail legs had kicked in a little faster.  But I think caution is important at this point because of how I feel.  

It’s been a very interesting 275 miles of hiking in a gorgeous part of the country.  I’ve met a lot of good people and experienced a different culture down here.  The southern charm is real and welcoming.  The people both here and on the trail have been a great experience for me and opened my eyes wider.  I’m sure glad I did it.  I'm leaning toward heading back home to get my health checked out before deciding on whether to continue on the hike.

So today the tramily met for breakfast at 7am as scheduled.  ADD is a little down and said he is sad that I am leaving.  I feel the same way.  I feel like I am letting the team down but BAMA said don’t be sorry.  Everyone has to do their own hike.  

After breakfast we said our goodbyes and hoped we would meet up again on the trail.  You never know.  Now they are off continuing their adventure.  Safe travels.

I returned to the hostel and caught my shuttle to Asheville with Wild Bill.  He’s another Appalachian Trail gem, about 80 years old filled with stories that kept me entertained during the 50 minute ride to Asheville.  He dropped me at the car rental near the airport.  I’ll be here a day so I am renting a car for transport.  Got the car had some lunch and checked into a real hotel (Hampton Inn & Suites) near the Biltmore Estate.  Shower, Advil and sleep.😊

On Friday I fly home, get checked out and will reassess from there.

Happy trails to all that are continuing on.  You have my deepest respect and best wishes for a safe and adventurous journey.  Maybe we’ll meet again.

Day 28

We zeroed today in Hot Springs, NC.   It’s a small hiker town.  Population of about 500.  It consists of about 3 blocks worth of small stores, a few restaurants, the mineral Springs and parks.  It’s situated at the base of the mountains so it’s a pretty area.  The Laughing Heart Hostel is about two to three blocks from the center.  It’s just a few minutes down a country road.  We walked into town for breakfast at the diner.

Eggs, hash browns, bacon, toast, orange juice, coffee and the like.  Awesome.  Pretty much the same group from the bar came for breakfast.  Portions are generous.  Prices are awesome.  

Much of the areas and towns we have walked through are somewhat impoverished.  Not much in the way of employment down here.  Some agriculture, trout farms, restaurants  and cabins and lodges for vacationing or hunting and fishing.  So life is pretty simple here.  It’s a slower pace as well.  Outdoor life of hiking, camping, hunting and fishing is big.  Guns are a big part of culture.  Saw a store with the slogan “Drugs and Guns”.  You guessed it; a drug store that sells ammo and guns I’m told.

Life style is very laid back.  Think of the Andy Griffith show in terms of the pace of life and colloquialism and you get the idea.  People are very friendly  and folksy.  There is a certain southern charm to the area.

I walked down to see the hot springs they are noted for.  They are on the other side of town (a few blocks) over the railroad tracks just before the river.  They have hot tubs (like people have back home) set up behind partitions which they pipe the mineral water into.  Maybe large enough for 6  to 8 people.  I’m sure soaking in hot mineral water is nice but it just looked ok.  I did not go in.  

Took a stroll to the French Broad River which skirts past the Edge of town. Very pretty here.  Pictures never do it justice.

Still pretty full from breakfast and looking to get some vegetables in our diet we had so we had salads for lunch at the Iron Horse Station.  

I’ve been drinking a lot of water and Gatorade trying to hydrate.  Still not feeling up to speed so I’ve decided to tell ADD and BAMA that I have decided to go into Asheville for a couple of days to sight see and recoup.  I actually had Asheville on my list to see anyways.  I want to see the Vanderbilt’s Biltmore Estate.  I also have the impression it’s a quaint little southern town.  Not sure why I do because I’ve not really done any research on it, just heard good things about it.  I guess we’ll see.  I would probably forego Asheville to stick with the tramily if it weren't for my health but I am concerned with the possibility of passing out and having more serious health issues on the trail and the next trail town is approximately 5 hiking days away.  At the top of my list for hiking the trail was health and safety.  So I’m breaking up the tramily and going into Asheville to get more rest and do some leisurely sight seeing.  Hopefully that will get me back on my feet where I will fill comfortable continuing. 

Had dinner at the diner and beer at Creekside with the other hikers.  Word has spread that I’m breaking off.  Cousin, Wheels, Jimmy Trails and others wished me the best and encouraged me to consider resuming my trip after Asheville.  It was nice to get this encouragement.  I may never see these people again.  Good folk.  They are made of hardy stock.

Most of the hikers here are heading out tomorrow although there is still a steady flow getting into town every day.  The hiker bubble is still passing through although we are on the back end of it.  We plan on having breakfast in the morning so I’ll see some before they go.  Others will leave very early before breakfast to beat the expected heat. 

I packed everything up, made reservations for a shuttle to Asheville (about 35 miles) and a hotel near the Biltmore Estate in Asheville.  My tramily plans to meet for breakfast at 7am.  ADD and BAMA will hike on from there and I will return to hostel to wait for my 9am shuttle.

Now it’s time to sleep.  💤 

Day 27

Dave (ADD) was sick last night.  Heard him puking in the middle of the night for a while.  Everyone is fearful of getting the norovirus but I think he had a little food poisoning.  He was complaining about his stomach a little at the end of the day.  Since he was only throwing up that’s what I think. With Norovirus you go and throw.  Norovirus is very contagious.  

In the morning Sandy headed out and I hung back with ADD to be sure he was ok.  We have about 12.8 miles to do today to get to Hot Springs.  Right off the bat we had a serious climb followed by several smaller climbs.  I prefer to get the climbing done early in the day when my legs are fresher.  More ridge hiking please.  Not too many views today because of foliage but the foliage is beautiful.  Lots of flowers, mountain streams and the like.

Temperatures warmed up into upper 70s.  The humidity is higher as well.  In fact today may be the first day I really noticed the humidity.  One good thing is that the foliage is out even more to protect us from the sun.  ADD seems to be doing ok although his energy level is down a little.  We are enjoying the trail’s lush foliage and fauna, mountain streams and waterfalls.  Periodically we passed or got passed by other hikers.  So many interesting characters on this trail, young and old, both genders, hiking alone or in small groups.  Each seem to have a story to tell.  I’m amazed at the number of people from overseas hiking this trail.  Countries I’ve counted include:  Sweden, Germany, Japan. Australia, New Zealand, England and Israel.  

The last few miles of today’s hike were a descent into Hot Springs.  Descents don’t cause me as much exertion as the climbs but they are tougher on the knees.  We’ve been pushing big miles the last several days, at  least they are for me.  On the way down deer were crossing the trail but ran off down the hill as we approached.  The terrain is steep off the trail but it didn’t seem to hinder them.  

The hostel we stayed at was right on the trail just as we made it to the edge of town.  It’s called the Hostel at Laughing Heart Lodge.  When we arrived we got a cold soda and slumped at a bench.  Then we pulled our pack into our room and prepared to clean up and do laundry.  Good lord we need a shower.

The owners or caretakers were out back by the bench and welcomed us.  Very laid back like most hostels on the trail.  So different from what I am used to.  They are also very friendly.

When I was unpacking and getting ready to clean up I bent down to pick something up and blacked out.  I don't really remember falling only I heard the thud of my body hitting the floor and someone calling out several times if I was alright.  Kind of an out of body experience.  Had to pick myself up off the floor.  So I sat down for a while before I showered and did laundry.  Felt a little better in a few minutes.  I am worried about my exertion, nutrition and hydration and blood pressure levels. 

It was mid afternoon so Sandy and Dave went in to town to look around a little.  I was still woozy so I stayed at the hotel and rested.  I needed to reassess my situation.  

After a few hours I felt better and walked into town (a short walk) for dinner.  I went to the Smoky Mountain Diner.  Boy are things cheap down here.  Got a full dinner with drink for about $12.  Portions are large and food tasted great.  It’s country dining and I'm loving it.  I think the hiker hunger is setting in.

I met No Heart and Nightingale at the diner. We’ve been leapfrogging them for weeks.  I think both of these guys are veterans.  I know No Heart is.  He was special forces I believe and saw some serious action in Afganistan,  Good people to hike with.  They got to town yesterday and took a zero day here today.  They will be heading out tomorrow.  I think we will zero tomorrow before heading out.  So I ate dinner with them and felt a little better.  After dinner we walked down the street a block to Spring Creek Tavern & Inn to meet up with other hikers and have a beer.  It’s a nice place with a creek running along side it.  We sat outside on the porch where we could watch the people fishing and enjoy a beautiful evening.  The place was full of hikers.  The group at the table I sat at included the following starting at 7 o’clock and going clockwise;  Jimmy Trails, Chris (Cousin), Nightingale, No Heart (with head down), someone I didn’t know, Wheels, Sandy (now with trail name BAMA), and ADD.

Those are predominately hikers at the other tables as well.

We had a good time discussing trail stories, catching up on whereabouts of people we’ve met on trail and the like.  There have already been a number who have left the trail.  Others are ahead and some behind depending on their speed and other factors such as zero days taken.  Good to hear about all these.  I nursed a beer and drank water.  I'm feeling better but still woozy at times.

The three of us shared a single room with three beds the first night as three separate private rooms weren’t available until the second night.  We’ll move to those tomorrow.😊

I’m concerned about my blackout.  I was woozy the night before and still a little light headed tonight. Tomorrow is a zero day so I will think about this in the morning and see how it goes.

Time for sleep.  💤 

Day 26

We decided on a medium long day of 13.9 miles.  First, the weather is good and second, if we do this we can get into Hot Springs to the Laughing Heart Lodge for a bed and shower on Monday night. Hot Springs is a small town of less than a thousand people, known ( you guessed it) for its hot mineral springs.  We can eat at a restaurant there as well.  I’m getting really tired of trail food and boy do I need a shower.  The stink is real especially when you can smell yourself.

We did get some trail magic.  Someone left apples and snacks at a crossing.  I grabbed a green apple and peanuts.  Both were great but the apple was sweet and tart just the way I like them.  Thinking about apples all day after that.

We passed another milestone early today.  We went past the 250 mile mark.  Whew!  

We had good weather.  It’s a little cool but you stay warm while hiking.  We crossed Max Patch which was really pretty but very windy.  I had to strap my Tilley on so it wouldn’t blow off.  It was way too windy to have lunch there so we hiked down a ways until we found a place sheltered from the wind.

The Sun was warm and we would have stayed longer but we have miles to cover.  One section near the end of the day was a steep climb of nearly a mile.😩

Not much wildlife to be seen today except for a small garter snake about 28 inches long.  With its green coloring it blended in with the foliage and I only noticed it when it suddenly streaked off into the woods when I was right up on it.  I could have touched it with my trekking pole.

We ended our day at a camp site at Kale Gap.

My back is aggravating me today.  I am hoping it doesn't develop into a real issue.  I’ll evaluate it tomorrow and see if it gets better.  More worrisone is that I was very woozy while putting up my tent tonight.  Everytime I bent over to put stakes in the ground or secure part of the tent I felt feint.  I had to sit down a couple of times to keep from feinting.  Once I got the tent up and had some dinner I felt better and the dizzy spells passed.

Time to sleep.  💤 .

Day 25

The skies cleared in the morning and we started on our way with stunning views as we walked the ridge.  Today we finish the Smoky Mountains.

The first part of the day was mostly downhill.  

My back is sore.  Not sure why.  I have been losing weight so maybe the pack needs adjustment.  I took ibuprofen last night so I could get to sleep.

As we got lower the flora became lusher and we crossed over a number of steams like this.  Spring is beginning to take hold.



Crossed a few streams via a log bridge or hopping on stones  We also were walking under the green canopy of the surrounding trees and bushes.  Ground flowers of many types are blooming.

Around midday we exited the Smokys at Davenport Gap.  We put the other half of our permit which we deposited in the box when we entered the Smokys in the box at Davenport as we left.  Not sure why it’s necessary but perhaps to be sure you make it through successfully.

We were disappointed we did not see any bears in the Smokys.

Not long after that we cross the Pigeon River and route 40 before starting our ascent of the next mountain.  It was a pretty river and I would have gone in if it was warmer.



We stopped at Standing Bear Farm hostel.  Its pretty unique and well known on the trail.  It’s a funky place that is run kind of like a commune.  It has several buildings including a bunk house, supply center, a house for recharging electronics, a place where you wash your dishes when you finish eating (you wash your own), a privy or port a potty,  and a small house where you can get something to eat.  You can tent there as well.

It’s a very unusual place but the people there were groovy man.  We had been hearing different things about the place.  Some good, some bad.  It was definitely a place on my list to see so I was glad we took a short side trip to stop there.  It was early afternoon so we resupplied, had burgers,  washed up a little and moved on.

It was a long hike today and late in the day I was beginning to feel the grind.  But we got a surprise.  Some good old boys were riding their four wheel ATVs down the trail.  There were five ATVs in all.  Sandy had hiked ahead of us as usual.  She was typically faster than us.  So it was just ADD and me.  They stopped and offered ADD and me a cold beer which we accepted without hesitation.  They were very friendly but definitely locals out for a joy ride.  I would have taken their picture but they are not supposed to be there on ATVs so I opted to pass on that.

Just a little before we came to our stop we got our first bear siting. 😊

By the time I got my camera out he had moved away but I got a picture before he walked off into the woods.

I was pretty exhausted after walking the 17.6 miles to Groundhog Creek Shelter.  This was our longest hike so far.  We camped outside the shelter for the night.  My back is a little worse so I took some vitamin I.  We discussed getting to Hot Springs NC a day earlier and the taking a zero day when we get there.  Everyone was too tired so we tabled it until the morning.

Time to sleep. 💤