May 5, 2021

The breakfast was as good as advertised.  I fueled up over a delicious gourmet breakfast all homemade.  Great start to the day.

Hikers trickled back to the trail after breakfast.  I was one of the earlier ones to head out under cloudy skies.  There is a chance of rain but as I set out it was no more than a fine mist not even requiring a rain coat.

Today’s goal is approximately 12 miles to a camp site by a stream near Upper Laurel Fork.

Some sights from the morning as I climbed out of Roan.

I passed Isaacs Cemetery which looked new.  

Then, a short way up the trail I passed the 400 mile marker.

A short detour down a blue blaze trail took me to Jones Falls.  This picture doesn’t do it justice.


And then I completed the North Carolina part of the trail.  Two states down.

Following Elk River into Tennessee was bucolic.

And, in case you missed the 400 mile marker there was another reminder of how far you had walked.


Trail was gorgeous today.  Outstanding mountains and valleys, walks along beautiful river banks and waterfalls.  In the afternoon I passed Mountaineer Falls and stopped by Mountaineer Shelter for a late lunch.

A tick jumped on my pants but seemed to be stunned.  Maybe the permethrin was doing it’s work.  I flicked it off and did a thorough check and did not find any others.  Now that Spring is blooming and grass and bushes are crowding the trail the ticks will be a more pressing issue.

Over lunch I was thinking how lucky it was that the rain had held off.  That would change and a steady rain began to fall.  Donning my rain gear I pushed on until I reached my destination.  I picked my site from several available spots next to a creek.  A lull in the rain allowed me to get my tent set up without things getting wet.😅

Gary and Pork Chop showed up and decided to pitch their tents here as well.  Nero did the same 30 minutes later.

Changed into dry clothes, cooked some beef stroganoff for dinner and then settled into my warm, dry sleeping bag.  I fell asleep to the pitter patter of rain on my tent.

May 3 & 4, 2021

Ugly weather has pushed me off the trail for a couple days in Roan.  Heavy rain and thunderstorms from time to time.  As I write this post, it is a monsoon. The forecast says that it should subside tomorrow so I will make a break for it in the morning.  In the meantime I am currently holed up at the Mountain Harbor B&B and hostel.

This is the B&B part.

This is the hostel where I am staying.

The inside of the hostel:

Ground floor coffee and dining area.

Second floor bunk room and loft.


I snagged a cubby hole room off the bunk room.

Everyone has raved about the breakfast here which is served up at the B&B.  I’ll see for myself tomorrow before I hit the road.

When I got here I got the hiker box full of supplies that Deirdra sent.  I’m set for several days.  Looks like I will need only a small resupply to reach my destination in Damascus.

Much attention has been focused on the Corona Virus.  Interestingly the vaccine has been available to hikers at hostels and trail towns along the way and lots of hikers are taking advantage of this.

There are of course other illnesses hikers are wary of, limes disease borne by ticks and Norovirus which is a debilitating intestinal ailment.  I began to hear about Norovirus cases as I reached Erwin the other day.  It’s usually spread through close physical contact or on surfaces.  Need to be diligent about good hygiene practices.

Ticks are also a major concern and three hikers I was with the other day found ticks on them.  Mostly on their clothes.  After careful exam I found none on me.  I treated my clothes and equipment with permethrin and it appears to be doing it’s job.  I’ll be checking closely until I am done with this hike.

Saw a snake by the edge of the creek.  Looks like a water snake which is non venomous.  He is hard to see in the picture but his head is visible a little left of the center.

The trail is going to be muddy tomorrow.

May 2, 2021

Sunrise from my tent this morning.

I have a short day today so I take my time over breakfast before getting underway.  The forecast is for thunderstorms tomorrow so I am getting off the trail so I don’t get caught on top of Roan Mountain or the surrounding balds during the storms.

Today’s hike is only six miles to Hughes Gap where I will get shuttled back to town.

Stopped at Clyde Smith Shelter for water and a snack.  There are four other hikers there.  Two women hiking together who I have seen off and on over the last couple days (Oh one hundred and DKS Don’t Know Sh**), a hiker I met earlier today (Sprint) and a guy acting really weird.  The women left and then Sprint and I hurriedly followed suit.

Only one modest climb today up to Little Rock Knob where there was this view:

Had other panoramic vistas along the way.

Got to Hughes Gap.  Turns out the two women were being picked up there by friends.  They provided trail magic to me and two other hikers (Beatlejuice and Digits). 



The women told me they have a YouTube vlog. 

I’ll have to look it up.

Beatlejuice and Digits continued on, the women left with their ride and shortly thereafter my shuttle arrived and took me back to town.  Will get a good night’s sleep and assess the weather to see when I can get back to the trail.

May 1, 2021

Got a late start this morning.  It was cold and it was hard to get out of my sleeping bag.  I was nearly the last person to leave the camp site.  The strong winds from last night would die down by mid morning and it warmed up over the course of the day. The start is a climb over Unaka Mountain with an elevation of approximately 5,200 feet.  Since our camp was at over 4,000 feet it wasn’t a huge climb. Today would be walking up and down smaller slopes rather than the long continuous climb of yesterday yet when done I would have ascended over 3,200 feet so nearly as much.

My pace was slow and plodding. I have been consciously trying to stay hydrated and snack to keep my energy up.  I feel sluggish today.

Much of the time the hike is in woods but there are times we cross fields that expose the peaks ahead.

Stopped at spring to get water and this little fellow kept peeking his head out from the rocks to watch.

My Red Sox hat gives me away as a New Englander and I am suprised by the number of hikers I come across who are from there as well.  We are well represented.


Beautiful pasture and down to the left was another water source where I watered up before stopping for the day.


Fatigue came earlier today so I decided to stop at the top of Iron Mountain for the day.  I had hiked about 12 miles.  Had the camp site to myself near the top of Iron Mountain.

Made dinner, tied my ursack food sack to a tree about 50 yards away and climbed into my sleeping bag for the night.

April 30, 2021

Up early to catch my 7:30 shuttle back to the trail.  It’s an uphill day from town to Beauty Spot, about 3,500 feet of elevation over 10 miles.

It rained overnight but cleared by the time I started my hike.  The woods are wet but the trail is not too muddy.  Forest is in full green particularly at the lower elevations.  I started the day by crossing over the river.   

Thereafter the trail followed a rail line for a short distance out of town before meandering left up into the mountain along a stream.  I may be the first on the trail this morning as I periodically break through spider webs stretched across the trail.  After about an hour three people passed by but no others would pass me today until I stopped to camp.

It’s cool but the exercise warms me up so I strip down to just a t-shirt.  At times a cold wind picks up and I think about adding a layer but then the sun shows and I feel a little warm.

About 5 miles in I stop at the Curly Maple Gap Shelter.  It looks like it has been rebuilt as it looks fairly new and has a second deck.  

Met Hard Mike from Norfolk MA and to my surprise Tobasco was there.  I didn’t stay long.  

Up, up and more up today, mostly walking through woods as we switchback up the mountain.  Once in a while there is a break in the trees so I get some great views.  

As before, there was always something unusual found deep on the trail.  Someone found this as a suitable final resting spot for a pet.

The long walk up to the Beauty Spot pays off with some extraordinary views.

Found a camping site about a hundred yards past the top down in the woods.  Actually two guys from Georgia came up and we all decided to stay there.  Not long after several others came and soon the available tent sites were full.  Met a guy from Michigan (Gourmet), a young lady from Pittsburg and a couple others.  We built a fire and had dinner and then some of us walked back up to Beauty Spot to see the sunset.  It did not disappoint.

It was getting cold and windy so we didn’t linger once the sun slipped over the horizon. Once warm in my sleeping bag, sleep came quickly.

April 29, 2021

Taking a zero day today in Erwin, TN at the Super 8 motel.

Legs and knees need a break.  Hobbled to get dinner last night but legs are feeling better this morning.  Got laundry done and walked maybe a half mile into the center of Erwin.

It is a small town right off interstate 26, nestled in a valley among the mountains along the Nolichucky River.  Population is around 6,000.  It has a comfy, relaxed, pleasant small town feel to me.  There is also a CSX railroad yard here.  I have heard a couple trains pass through since I’ve been here.  Very friendly people.  

From my hotel I walk under the interstate and then a few blocks into town.  My location is great as a big supermarket (Food City), Walgreens and a small outfitter are in walking distance so resupply is convenient.

It has a small but nice little Main Street.

I got my supplies, made arrangements to get shuttled back to the trail in the morning and decided to rest legs back at the hotel.  Keeping an eye on the weather forecast as there could be thunderstorms in a few days.  Shuttle comes at 7:30 in the morning to get going early. Tomorrow’s hike is going to be a climb back up into the mountains.

April 28, 2021

Didn’t leave camp until a little after 8:30 as I took my time making breakfast and breaking camp.  Said goodbye to Tobasco and wished her well and started off for Erwin and a zero day tomorrow.

There have been more hikers this year than two years ago.  I suspect that last year’s group got pushed into this year because of COVID.  This year’s group is more predominantly in their twenties.  No international folks like last time.

A very friendly and helpful group with interesting backgrounds and interests from mostly the Eastern US.

I have not seen any wildlife to speak of.  Maybe the larger group of hikers is keeping them away from the trail.  One hiker did report encountering a rattle snake 🐍 when I stopped for lunch at No Business Knob Shelter.  Chatted with a woman from Pittsburgh.  Our conversation turned to biking the Allegany Gap which Deirdra and I plan to do.  She has done the Gap and the C&O canal.  We biked the C&O canal a couple years ago.  She stayed at the same hostel and ate at Buddy Lou’s in Hancock, MD that we did.  Small world.  As I was finishing up, “Clingy” showed up.  I offered him my spot at the picnic table and hurried on my way.

Much of this day was walking along the side of the mountain along a narrow path.  Just need to be sure not to step to far to the side or you would end up going down a steep hill.  There were of course the obligatory peaks to climb and then the last few miles down into town.

Another good weather day.  Except for the one day of rain and wind the weather has been very cooperative.

The views were great today.

Coming into Erwin:

Made it to Erwin.  The Trail literally passes right by Uncle Johnny’s hostel.  Many of the hikers are staying there, particularly the younger ones, but I’m not.  Had a drink on the porch waiting for my ride.  Just as “Clingy” showed up my ride came.  I think he was going to stay there.

I took a shuttle to the Super 8 hotel which is closer to shopping and resupply.  Time for a long shower, food and sleep 🛌.

I am taking a day off tomorrow to rest.  The knee has been holding up fairly well.  It’s been my right foot that’s been bugging me.

Completed about 11 miles and elevation of  2.000 feet.  We descended down from the mountains into Erwin so the total decent from the gap to Erwin was over 5,000 feet.